BRASS

Discussion in 'Filtration, & Other Equipment' started by joqubr, Oct 8, 2017.

  1. joqubr

    joqubr Emerald Crab

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  2. joqubr

    joqubr Emerald Crab

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    ok i should have googled it first...
    i see it is a BIG no-no
    '*bus*'
     
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  3. Humblefish

    Humblefish Dr. Fish Administrator LARC Supporter

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    Yup, you never want anything metallic in or even too close to saltwater. ;)
     
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  4. jleblanc26

    jleblanc26 For the people, by the people Global Moderator LARC Supporter

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    No, like putting a fork in the microwave. You just dont do it. They make some pretty decent plastic float valves
     
  5. clsanchez77

    clsanchez77 Reefkeeping Extremist Global Moderator

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    Good quality plastic valves are available. If metal is completely unavoidable, you want to make sure you have Titanium. A second best use for short term is grade 316 stainless steel, also called marine grade, but I would not count on that long term.

    Absolutely avoid AT ALL COSTS copper and any allow containing copper. Other metals are nearly as bad, but copper is by far the worst of the common metals.
     
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  6. jleblanc26

    jleblanc26 For the people, by the people Global Moderator LARC Supporter

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    [​IMG]

    copper is bad ummmm k, lol.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  7. joqubr

    joqubr Emerald Crab

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    gotta love south park... let's not kill Kenny let's not use copper
     
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  8. wazzel Ko-Ko Worm Global Moderator LARC Supporter

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  9. joqubr

    joqubr Emerald Crab

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  10. wazzel Ko-Ko Worm Global Moderator LARC Supporter

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    I have used them for quite some time. They are really reliable, especially for the price.
     
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  11. joqubr

    joqubr Emerald Crab

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    what's your thought on the adjustable version for the sump ATO?

    and/or is there some type of bracket that i can mount on the sump with a virtical slide for float adjustment?
     
  12. wazzel Ko-Ko Worm Global Moderator LARC Supporter

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    I have used them in the past for tank top off. I made my own bracket out of acrylic. Since they are bulkhead mounted you could make a bracket out of glass and silicone it in. With the adjustable arm you should not need to move the bracket unless you are way off.
     
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  13. joqubr

    joqubr Emerald Crab

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    this is the set screw wing nut (view)
    and here's the components
    • NSF approved PVC bodies
    • Santoprene┬« rubber seals
    • 18-8 stainless steel hardware ??????????????????????????? is this metal ok????????????
    • Long-wearing, chemical resistant & replaceable seals
    • Valves have a .093 orifice
    • 23175, 23176, 23179 & 23180 valves include the float only
    • Pressure rating: 100 psi
    • Maximum temperature: 100┬░F
    [​IMG]
     
  14. clsanchez77

    clsanchez77 Reefkeeping Extremist Global Moderator

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    Im not certain about 18-8. 316SS is the only grade recommended for marine.
     
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  15. wazzel Ko-Ko Worm Global Moderator LARC Supporter

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    You can adjust the float so the hardware stays well out the water.
     
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  16. clsanchez77

    clsanchez77 Reefkeeping Extremist Global Moderator

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    While that is true, I have used 18-8/304SS hardware to mount fans and other gear within my sump cabinet and it is rusting. In fact, 18-8/304SS is very susceptible in humid high chloride environments. In other words, the hardware is probably safer in the water than above the water. This was disappointing as I *thought* all 300 series SS was going to be corrosion resistant. I am looking now to see where I can get my 1/4" 316SS nuts, bolts and washers for when I replace the fans. I also need to now inspect my light rack as I have 304SS hardware on the Aluminium T-slot frame. I used nylon washers for dissimilar material isolation.
     
  17. clsanchez77

    clsanchez77 Reefkeeping Extremist Global Moderator

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    To clarify 18-8 and 304SS are the same alloy at least in regards to chromium and nickel composition. In my line of work, we refer to 304, 316, etc. The difference between 18-8/304 and 316 is that grade 316 has molybdenum, only about 2-3%. It makes a difference.
     
  18. wazzel Ko-Ko Worm Global Moderator LARC Supporter

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    Corrosion resistance varies by grade in the 300 series. If really worried about the hardware you can swap out the bolt and wingnut for nylon bolt and thumb screw.

    If well vented the aluminum rack should be fine. I have used aluminum material for racks before and did not have an issue. I would be concerned if it was submerged. The grade of aluminum 80/20 uses, 6105, is fairly corrosion resistant.
    https://8020.net/university-tslot
    https://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=8628
     
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  19. joqubr

    joqubr Emerald Crab

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    my current plan (subject to change with advice)
    - an acrylic piece mounted to sump with a vertical opening to allow the non-adjustable all plastic float valve to slide up and down until i can figure out proper water level
    when i get a few minutes i will draw up a diagram and post it here asking for thoughts/suggestions
     
  20. clsanchez77

    clsanchez77 Reefkeeping Extremist Global Moderator

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    My concern is not the aluminum rack itself, but the 18-8 hardware I used on it to support the lighting.
     

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