chiller style question

Discussion in 'Filtration, & Other Equipment' started by Anonymous, May 22, 2006.

  1. drop in coil or flow thru?
    undecided at the moment, never had a chiller before so
    pros and cons on each would be greatly appreciated.
    installing on a 240gal.
     
  2. the biggest pro for flow thru is that it doesn't have to be in the same room as the tank were as drop in has to be close. You can put flow thru out side if you wanted. Therefor non of the heat that the chill gives off goes back into the house.
     
  3. I just installed a Delta Star drop-in 1/4 hp chiller in the 100 gallon tank at my son's school. It brought the temps down from 87'ish to 78 and I have it holding there. I had to feel it to see if it was running when we first got it going. The biggest drawback, and it was minor, was that I had to drill another hole in the side of the stand to put the coil through. The reason this had to be done is because the stand is built into the wall. I guess you could say that the tank is sitting on a cabinet. Though this cabinet was custom made for the tank. I would opt for the drop-in if it were me after dealing with this one. The chiller does not give off much heat. Only other thing I didn't like, was that the hose coming out the back of the chiller cannot be turned in a 90 degree bend, so you have to be careful about not bending this hose too much in fear of it bending as to make a crease which will cause it to stress and break. So if you can deal with those two problems the drop-in would be a good choice.
     
  4. thanks guys
    great info

    my sump/refugium, skimmer, pumps and (chiller when i get one) are all installed outside in a shed next to the house.

    any trouble with water flow around the coil?

    does the coil type devlope an "icecube" around itself?
     
  5. a drop in is almost fail proof. i have heard a ton of chiller failuer stories because the chiller feed pump failed and the tank crashed b/c it got too hot. then again, inline chillers are nice because you cna keep them away from the tank. I would go with a drop in though for peace of mind.

    -Mike
     
  6. The Delta Star that we got for my son's school said to be sure and have plenty of flow around the coil for optimum chilling. I haven't noticed any freezing effect around the coil, but it has only been going for a few days now. Just be sure and get a good controller with whatever type you get. Preferably a dual stage.
     
  7. thanks for all the input

    First I will be burying 50' of 1/2" black polypropylene tubing under the house.
    Tapping off the closed loop pump for flow.
    Not sure what effect if any this will have but as per the wife I am required to try something like this before spending 100's of dollars on a chiller.
    Read up on geothermal cooling last night, interesting stuff.
    Went to Wal-Mart late last night and got one of those indoor/outdoor digital thermometers and buried the probe 2' down. Temp was steady at 74. :shock:

    will keep yall posted
     
  8. Kirk_M

    Kirk_M Chevron Tang LARC Supporter

    Messages:
    7,633
    Likes Received:
    106
    Location:
    Mandeville, LA
    Do you think 50' will be enough to get sufficient cooling? Also, is 2' enough depth? Dr. Mac at Pacific East Aquaculture uses this to cool his systems, and he looks to have the coils at 6 feet of depth, if I remember right. However, he's dealing with a much greater water volume.
     
  9. I doubt 50' will be enough. Just want to start with that amount to see if I am able to record any change in temp. this evening at 6ish checked the temp probe i buried in the ground last night and after sitting in the ground all day (in the shade) the temp is 74.6. This am at 7:15 I checked it, said 74.2.
    I will need to do a btu/heat rejection calc to size the length of pipe actually needed
     
  10. another concern I would have is how much head preasure is put on a pump? I too have read many articals on this in the past. When I build my work shop in the next month or so I plan on placing tubing under the slab to provide cooling for my green house project. Also I know the plastic pipe is cheap but not nearly conductive as a metal tubing, but what kind of metal could you use? Stainless, Aluminum with cathodic protection?
     
  11. Super Ampmaster 4000 and only taping off a little water for the cooling line.
    head pressure is a non-issue.
    Plastic will insulate itself to a large degree yes.
    I really think 316-L alloy stainlees steel seamless tubing would work for many years. loooots more $$$ than plastic!!
    Titanium would be best though. Cathodic protection (anode of Zinc, Magnesium or Aluminum would more likley do more harm to the fish and coral than good for the pipe.
     
  12. Palancar

    Palancar Ex-Acan Collector LARC Supporter

    Messages:
    6,115
    Likes Received:
    21
    Location:
    Lake Charles, La
    I would be very weary of using stainless tubing because of electrolysis, especially if there is a chance of grounding thru the tubing. Had that happen to me on one of my previous chiller designs, came home to an oil slick on the system. Now if there isn’t a chance of grounding seems to hold up well. As for titanium, “ouch” price for 3/8” tubing around $10 per foot, priced it for a project I had in mind. As an option what about using thin wall PVC pipe, schedule 20 I think. Have you seen any articles in regards to amount of water in buried piping and flow rate thru the piping, if so can you please post a link or links.
     
  13. OUCH! what alloy s/s did you use? was it seamless?
    even welded and drawn 316-l s/s will fail rather quick in salty conditions (on the weld line).
    I have been building commercial crewboats and ferry boats for years and rarely need to warranty failures on 316-L seamless pipe or thinwall tubing. Used this many many many times on saltwater engine cooling lines and air conditioner heat exchangers. Boats have many dissimilar metals in close contact to each other that would cause electrolysis problems. Normally held in check by anodes usually made of zinc or magnesium, these are less noble metals so they sacrifice their electrons more readily than the more noble metals that you want to protect. In an aquarium the type and quantity of dissimilar metals is very low so in theory 316-L stainless should last a very long time. Stray currents also play havoc with metals so a grounding probe would come in handy. Mag drive external pumps and properly grounded direct drive pumps should pose very little chances of this.
    By the way I just ordered a 5' length of 3/4"x.035" wall Titanium tubing
    for less than $5.00 a foot including shipping :twisted:
    I will pimp out my source in exchange for Beer or Frags :lol: :lol:
     
  14. water flow thru a chilled water a/c system is right at 6gpm but that is for a copper heat exchanger. I would guess 1/2 that flow for any type of plastic pipe
     

Share This Page