New 90 setup

Discussion in 'The Showroom' started by Pettee86, Oct 24, 2005.

  1. Pettee86

    Pettee86 Marine Betta

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    Here's the beginning of my new 90. Canopy/Stand stained, lights installed, plumbing next. 4 VHO on Icecap 660, CC sump with Viaaqua skimmer, Mag 18 return with two scwds. Thinking about using M18 on CL and a different pump on return.
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  2. cwale

    cwale Emerald Crab

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    where did you get the sump at?
     
  3. Anonymous

    Anonymous Guest

    Lose that PVC pipe on your return... You're begging for micro-bubble hell with that on there! :shock:
     
  4. SLUSamson

    SLUSamson CrossHatch Trigger

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    i'd leave the PVC on the return... by removing it, the water returns quicker and then it starts sucking air... talk about micro bubble hell...there may be some other way around that, but i just removed it from mine and quickly put it back...
     
  5. Anonymous

    Anonymous Guest

    When the water is forced into the tube through small holes, it's creating turbulance, which in turn creates additional micro-bubbles.

    Place a 90* fitting into the bulkhead (faced down), then adjust your flow control via a ball valve on the OUTPUT side of your return pump.

    You'll be drawing water from the bottom of the sump that has a lessor amount of micro-bubbles, as well as slowing your flow rate and eliminating air suction.

    The problem w/ that tube, is that air WILL become trapped inside over time, and that will intensify your problem by acting as an air injector. If you look closely in the pics below, you'll also see how I have the plexi baffle placed between the 3rd glass baffle which seperates the fuge from the return section, and the bulkhead.

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  6. SLUSamson

    SLUSamson CrossHatch Trigger

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    I'm going to try noth of these today and see how they work for reducing the bubbles.. i will post and let you know...
     
  7. Pettee86

    Pettee86 Marine Betta

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    cwale - got the sump from coral connections.

    Samson / tgreene - thanks for the input.
    Samson, let me know how yours works out with the changes.

    I hope to plumb mine in the next day or so.

    Pete
     
  8. Anonymous

    Anonymous Guest

    i have the exact same sump and i do not have any micro bubbles at all. nice tank BTW and good luck to you!

    -Mike
     
  9. Anonymous

    Anonymous Guest

    What is your return pump Mike?
     
  10. Anonymous

    Anonymous Guest

    Panworld 50PX-X pump ran externally. Its working great, puts off barley any heat, and is dead silent.

    -Mike
     
  11. Pettee86

    Pettee86 Marine Betta

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    Mike - thanks for the complement.
     
  12. Pettee86

    Pettee86 Marine Betta

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    Good weekend - tank up and running. Added rock/sand. Couple of pics.
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    Hard to see the rock as it was just put in and is a little cloudy but the piece in the middle is a nice piece I got from CC. Its got a couple of hitchhikers which I hope make it through the cycle.
     
  13. Anonymous

    Anonymous Guest

    Lookin' mighty good! 8)
     
  14. Anonymous

    Anonymous Guest

    Looks Good! Keep us posted.
     
  15. SLUSamson

    SLUSamson CrossHatch Trigger

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    looking good!
     
  16. Anonymous

    Anonymous Guest

    looks very nice.
     
  17. Anonymous

    Anonymous Guest


    You can tell where he got it back by how pitifully low the kent float valve is placed in his sump. That's classic George. Who keeps only 3" of water in their sump? He did mine too, and that was a waste of $40 in the sump price, as it has no use. Gee, it looks like he actually learned something about plumbing since I got mine 3 years ago...he actually puts unions on the pumps now! Taking my mag-drive off the sump requires that I remove the frigging face plate of the pump, after completely DRAINING the sump. THEN, I can remove the return line to the tank by unscrewing it from the pump's return, and after that I can rotate the face plate until it unscrews from the sump's return line. This makes pump maintainence a royal pain in the ***, not to mention that I am always afraid I am gonna crack the damn bulkhead opening at the return site because of how much flexing the flex-pvc on the outside of the sump is doing. I can see also that your drain line is glued to the bulkhead, and then glued to your sump, just as mine was done, with no union. Gee, hope you never have to move! Because you'll have to do like I did and cut the damn drain pipe and put a union on it.

    Now that I know a lot more about reef tanks than I did 3 years ago, I am really pissed and unhappy with my sump, as it has little to no room for upgrading equipment and maintaining that which you have. I am surprised I was able to get rid of that junky downdraft skimmer that never worked (probably due to it being overpowered by a mag 12 when ETSS suggests a MAG7 for it -- but George insisted MORE IS BETTER!) and put a euro-reef in -- but I had to raise my sump level a few inches because of the platform that's on the bottom of his 30" acrylic sumps.

    My reef setup is so hardwired it's unbelievable. It's a joke. And to think I got robbed of thousands on this one.
     
  18. Pettee86

    Pettee86 Marine Betta

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    Triax - I did the plumbing myself not CC. The drain line is glued to the buldhead but not the sump. Unscrew the union on the return to the pump and the sump is free to come out of the stand.
     
  19. Anonymous

    Anonymous Guest

    I can't tell from the image, but you DO have a ball-valve between the sump and the union don't you..? Please say yo do...... ;)
     
  20. Pettee86

    Pettee86 Marine Betta

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    newbi plumber - don't have a valve there. Guess that could be a problem. If I needed to service the pump I could turn the 90 in the sump upwards and drain a little water from the sump. Looks like it will be a pain the A-- when I work on the pump.
     

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