2 algae ID & battle

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CenlaReefer

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I just started using Reef Flux yet would like to get an ID on what I think could be 2 types of algae shown below. The brighter and longer green algae under the arching coral on the left is likely GHA. It can be pulled and scrubbed off rocks easily and is baby soft. Still, I always like a second opinion.

The one that is the BIG concern to me is this very short & dark brown algae. Depending on my lighting, at times it appears almost expresso colored. It pops-up in a scattering of tiny patches as shown on the concrete base of this frag. It does not come off even when I scub it with a brush like I have pictured below as well. If it is turf algae, I am in trouble. Turf algae is resistant to Reef Flux and only a limited number of CUC will eat it.

20220131_131701.jpg


1643657070162849552042746904617.jpg
 

CenlaReefer

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This pic of the brown may be in better focus and has greater magnification:

20220131_135028.jpg
 

CenlaReefer

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I have a cheap yet good magnifying app on my phone I will try early this evening when I get home.
 

BluewaterLa

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I would agree that the green is Derbesia
The brown looks like turf algae to me, exactly what kind I am not sure

Kevin for this type of algae you will be best served first trying to scrub with a hard bristle brush like used on a car tire, you can find them smallish to use at different stores. Just feel the bristles for stiffness as you want pretty stiff brushes.
Using straight peroxide and allow it to sit on the algae may help kill it off before scubbing.

The only critter I know that would eat that stuff is an urchin. You can get quarter sized tuxedo urchins and they can maneuver around corals far easier and get into smaller spaces / dips in the rock surface.
Other than that I do not know of many others that would touch it unless starving and only that was available as its not palatable to most.
 

CenlaReefer

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I tried that magnifying app yet it kept crashing and not producing good pics

If this is turf algae, I may take a radical course of action. This sunroom has 2 tanks with a common sump. It does not seem to be in the cube tank or the sump. That is thanks to the use of my filter socks. I may just cut off use of the frag tank, drain it, and let it all dry out and die off. Most of my prized corals are in the cube tank anyway. Is this possible or do you all think the spores cannot be kept from spreading into the cube tank and sump? Also, I will wait and see what the Reed Flux does. If it is turf algae, I know it will not be touched by this chemical treatment.
 

CenlaReefer

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90% of the stuff in the frag tank is very low end. I cannot sell most of this stuff for even $5 a frag or $10 for a large colony. I would like to take out some mushroom corals. I plan to only cut a few of those at the neck above the base and give them a peroxide / SW dip before I transfer them over.
 

BluewaterLa

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Good approach to see what the treatment will do or not do for you situation.
I would not worry about spores per say when you disconnect your frag tank.
The algae will not be on any coral tissue that is healthy / alive so fragging can be done without transferring said algae to other tanks.
You can make sure that the algae is gone / dead by use of bleaching the rock, bleach and water mix. This is the most effective way as there are some algae that can dry out for a long time and still be viable when introduced back to water. This is not only seen in our hobby but also in collecting algae / plants from launching a boat and some time later using a different launch without clearing the plant matter from your trailer can introduce a foreign or invasive species where it never existed.
 

CenlaReefer

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I cut off water to the frag tank and moved some rock and stuff to a 10 gallon bucket to get a bleach soak outside. Some corals had to be tossed. The corals that will be fragged will be transferred to a 10 gallon coral & CUC quarantine tank. I should have set this up a very long time ago. I really had the room in the sunroom. I am not taking chances with this dark turf algae plague! The plan is to keep such a tank running for at least a year or two. I may keep this tank up and running for the long term.
 

CenlaReefer

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I transferred frags and some colonies to a newly setup 10 gallon QT tank I setup in the sunroom. It is good that I did not get rid of any of my small powerheads and my small heater. Everything looks like it is doing great. I loaded the little tank up with about 15 baby trochus snails. I want to attempt a group order of some of these slugs. I will make another thread for this:

 

CenlaReefer

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I took a sample of that dark algae to Joey at Aquarium Central. He said he had a microscope and would look at it. He recently got back to me and said it was a dark brown turf algae.

I followed @BluewaterLa's advice to transfer corals with healthy tissue. Some corals had to be tossed. The 10 gallon QT tank appears to be doing well. I have not seen any of this stuff pop-up in that tank, the sump, or in the cube tank which is still connected to the sump. I wonder if my running Reef Flux may have helped. Another possibility is that my emerald crabs and army of trochus snails have been eating it before it has had opportunity to be observed.

The Deep Blue frag tank was taken outside and bleached along with the rock, plumbing, and return pump.
 

CenlaReefer

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I did some reading about turf algae scrubbers. Is that actually a GHA that grows on those screens or does someone purposely introduce a terrible turf algae into their systems?
 

CenlaReefer

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I do not see myself building an algae scrubber unless I did one somewhat like this one pictured in a BRS article:

algae-scrubber-2.jpg

Here is the article:


I am sure I have enough light bleed-over to grow GHA on the screen. Still, I believe I can manage algae without this if I could just keep that brown turf algae out of the system.
 

clsanchez77

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Far better information here: Resources | Algae Scrubbing
I would only build one, I can't justify the price to buy one.

For yours, get some plexiglass and build a tall box around it as a splash guard. The one downside to scrubbers is the excessive salt creep and salt spray.
 

BluewaterLa

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Yes its more hair algae type that grows on the ''turf mat''
Works really well at pulling nutrients out the water column, most folks find that they get nutrient poor and have to supplement trace elements along with Iron and such for the algae keeps the tank dry of certain needed trace.
 

CenlaReefer

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After soaking in water with bleach (approx 10:1 ratio), I removed all the rock and added fresh water with Prime for about 3 days. The tank was bleached, rinsed, scraped, and dried-out before I put it back in place with all the rock.

I started adding RO water again yet will keep the water level about 3 or 4 inches below the overflow. I would like to add salt and get my SG approximate to the rest of the system (.026. I have a large piece of open cell foam I can transfer from the sump to the frag tank to seed it with bacteria. I plan to leave this tank dark as I feed my imaginary fish. I may give it an entire month before turning on the lights and putting any coral, fish, or CUC in there.

I will put a bag of RowaPhos and a powerhead in there. How long does it take for RowaPhos to absorb phosphates from the water that is leached from rock? I will have to look if I still have a phosphate test kit.

Any recommendations?
 
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BluewaterLa

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You may not have much bound phosphate in the rock to even leach out into the water column.
I would check if you are curious after they have soaked well in tank water for several days.
Honestly the only issue I have had from phosphate leaching from old rock was from a fairly neglected nasty tank that was 10 plus years old.
Had some minor Nitrate and Phosphate issues with Pukani rock I got used from someone else and that was cured by a water change in the seeding tank.
 
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