2 algae ID & battle

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CenlaReefer

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Some of my rock has been in use in constantly since the 90s. My brother used them in his tanks before me. I don't plan to use phosphate remover in a tank with corals in there, yet I will try it out in this case.
 

clsanchez77

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I will put a bag of RowaPhos and a powerhead in there. How long does it take for RowaPhos to absorb phosphates from the water that is leached from rock? I will have to look if I still have a phosphate test kit.

Any recommendations?
RowaPhos (or any other GFO or Aluminum Oxide product) can only absorb the phosphates at the same rate the rock releases them. However, the rate these products can adsorb phosphates from the water is almost immediate when used in a reactor. Passively will take a little longer. These products cannot bind phosphates that remain bond up to the rock. The only recommendation that will work in this case is time. I would say you have done everything else that you can :)

In my personal experience, I generally did not have a phosphate problem in my 110. I keep pretty light fish loads and don't feed heavy, so phosphate input was light and usually tested at 0. When my refugium crashed, phosphates and nitrates spiked. I started using RowaPhos and phosphates were 0 within a few days. In my case, this was not a problem as my phosphates were normally near 0. And when I say normal 0, I mean test result is very light blue and that I cannot resolve a number. But when I used RowaPhos, I mean 0 as in there was no color in the water.

Personally, I think we put way too much stake into Phosphate. If phosphates and nitrates are high, I would recommend methods other than GFO first such as algae reactors and/or carbon dosing. If phosphate remains high with nitrates low, you can dose lanthanum chloride in a controlled amount, which allows you to better dial phosphate in. With GFO, there dose not seem to be a way to dial it in.
 

CenlaReefer

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It is still too early to tell, but I hopefully dodged a bullet with this dark turf algae. I still have not seen it in my cube tank, the sump, nor the QT tank. My radical measures may have been one of my best decisions I have ever made in this hobby. I will try to post pics tomorrow or Saturday.
 
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CenlaReefer

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So this is the new look for the frag tank for now.

20220218_174607.jpg

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The cube tank still looks good with no signs of the dark brown turf algae:

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Below are some pics of the 10 gallon QT frag:
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It is a terrible, blurry pic yet I am amazed that I finally got tri-colors from this coral:

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I attribute it to this "high-tech" blue flood light:
20220218_175206.jpg
 
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clsanchez77

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CenlaReefer

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It is a flood light for outdoor applications. Years ago, my brother took it apart and replaced the LED chip with a blue one. It has been working for years. I kept it as a backup. I guess this coral only colors-up under this spectrum. It has not developed tri-colors with the SB Reef Lights fixture, my t5s, nor with my Gen 3 Radion.
 

CenlaReefer

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I thank God that I still have not seen the dark turf algae at all in my cube tank, the sump, nor in the 10 gallon QT tank. I just added salt to the water that has been in the frag tank for 2 or 3 weeks along with a powerhead, the aquascape, & the RowaPhos. I have a large piece of well-seeded foam from the sump that I threw in there as well.

How long before you all think I am "through the woods" and free from not having to be concerned about this dark turf algae popping-up again? My concern is that I may have missed a spot when removing rock from corals before putting them into the QT tank. When transfering corals to QT, I used a TON of super glue to encapsulate every last bit of exposed rock (i.e. beneath and along edges of LPS corals).
 
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BluewaterLa

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How long before you all think I am "through the woods"

Bit of personal preference really, its been a couple weeks and nothing thus far I would feel confident in moving forward.
Thing is there could be unseen to the eye for a long time just waiting for the conditions to ripen again and then start growing.
All of our tanks have algae of different types, its just the clean up crew keeping the lawn mowed well or conditions are not as favorable for said algae to grow into a large mass.
 

CenlaReefer

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I put one small emerald crab and about 30 baby trocus in the 10 gallon frag tank. It may be that these are keeping the algae at bay. I guess time will tell when I move things back to the frag tank.
 

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Reefing much as the same as our lives is a journey to be lived, experienced and enjoyed.
Not much room or time for worrying about what might become, Your dedication and experience will out perform any issues.
 

CenlaReefer

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Reefing much as the same as our lives is a journey to be lived, experienced and enjoyed.
Not much room or time for worrying about what might become, Your dedication and experience will out perform any issues.
I am not so concerned about personally having a tank with some difficult algae to deal with. You are right that dedication can conquer it. The thing that I am not so crazy about with this hobby is that we can at times give a nasty algae or pest to someone else that can be so terrible that it can cause them to want to break-down their tank. I know someone who got red bubble algae from hell like that. That is why I went through some recent hardships and sacrifice, because I do not want to be that guy giving away great hardship riding along with a beautiful frag. I am very hopeful that I caught it in time. @BluewaterLa, I am thankful you recommended the bleach treatment. If not, I was going to let stuff dry-out for a week or so and then start over. It would have likely just come right back.
 
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CenlaReefer

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Over 2 days, I will slowly transfer water from the frag tank to the sump which is connected to the cube tank. That water is also getting mixed with the 10 gallon frag tank. I hope to transfer coral from the frag tank back to the 34 gallon Deep Blue frag tank tomorrow. If I do this too quickly, it would be like doing a 30-40% water change. That allows too much swing in water chemistry in my opinion.
 
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CenlaReefer

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All the corals have been transferred back from the 10 gallon frag tank and back to the 34 gallon frag tank. I lost 1 out of 3 of my acropora. It was having loss of tissue in the frag tank even before the transfer. Even with frequent water changes, it is difficult keeping good water quality in a 10 gallon frag tank. I guess among other things, there is a bit of a pH swing between day and light. In the the complete sunroom system, I can compensate for that using a kalkwasswer drip at night.
 
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CenlaReefer

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I still need to clean the glass, yet that will have to wait. I have more coral to transfer to this tank in a week or so. I plan to go heavy with mushroom and other low light for the floor of this tank.
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Can anyone guess what this is for? The answer is in the bottom-left-back corner.

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CenlaReefer

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The cube tank, frag tank, and sump all remain free of the dark turf algae! I had one rock with GHA. I easily scrubbed it off with a soft bristle brush. If it was turf algae, the brush would not have disturbed that stuff at all. I am so delighted!
 
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CenlaReefer

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I am still free of the dark turf algae. I still have to clean-out some GHA on occasion. I am so glad! I did need to place some more window shades and curtains to cut-out the sunlight that may have been feeding the growth.
 

CenlaReefer

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All my systems continue to be free of the dark turf algae. The radical solution of bleaching the frag tank, rock, plumbing, etc seemed to have done the trick. I still have to do a significant, manual GHA removal on occasion. I added some more shades and makeshift curtains to cut out natural light which may have been feeding the GHA growth. I used clips and some old quilts. Now my sunroom is not so sunny. I still do love this project. It is so nice to have a dedicated room for just reefing.
 

CenlaReefer

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Earlier this week, I noticed very dark (almost black) blotches popping-up on a few of my frag disks in both display tanks in the sunroom. It is too early to see if there is fuzz indicating this is a return of the dark turf algae. Still, I am almost sure that is what I am dealing with. It is a good thing I kept my softie tank inside the home. It is free of this. I don't see myself ever trading or selling coral out if this sunroom except if someone wanted a fresh snipped piece of SPS. Even that involves risk. At this point, I will just focus on letting both sunroom tanks grow-out into nice displays. I will need a specialized CUC to keep this stuff supressed; however, it is very doubtful I will ever get rid of it totally.
 
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