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CenlaReefer

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I'm so very happy to have Jeremy (JerPow83) over to my house today! Not only was he super generous with trading for some frag's, he was able to give me some expert help. He pointed out that I had my SB Reeflight fixture set at too high of an intensity. I was running my blue channel at about 100% and my white channel at about 30-40%. I now realize that the blue channel was causing some bleaching. Before, I was concerned that it was just poor quality of the light fixture; however, I was very wrong! He recommended settings for the blues at about 50 to 60% and the white channel at about 10 to 15%. Jeremy, if you see this please correct me if I'm wrong.

I am becoming much more convinced that members should visit each other's homes to check out each other's tanks to give / receive advice. That's especially important for people who are less experience like me. Here's a full shot of the frag tank in question:

image.jpg

Here is a photograph of the coral that was bleached-out. It is the bottom one of the three in the picture. Can anyone guess what's the common name of this particular chalice coral? It's kind a hard to tell with the discoloration.

image.jpg
 
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clsanchez77

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He pointed out that I had my SB Reeflight fixture set at too high of an intensity. I was running my blue channel at about 100% and my white channel at about 30-40%. I now realize that the blue channel was causing some bleaching. Before, I was concerned that it was just poor quality of the light fixture; however, I was very wrong!

That is THE LED delimma. The LED's lighting is very much directional as opposed to spread so the brightness appearance is very deceiving. Great catch by @JerPow83

I have bleached corals before and they do come back once the lighting is corrected. While debated in the hobby, I find feeding the corals helps them recover quickly.
 

Humblefish

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That is THE LED delimma. The LED's lighting is very much directional as opposed to spread so the brightness appearance is very deceiving. Great catch by @JerPow83

You said it. I am about to get into the LED coral growing game, and bought a PAR meter so I can "see" where I need to be putting what coral in the tank. And when the diodes begin to dim, I can adjust my settings accordingly. The same thing would always happen with T5, MH, etc. but the solution there was always just change the bulb. People don't know really when it's time to replace their LED diodes. Or just buy a new LED fixture.
 

CenlaReefer

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To give a little bit more history, I tried using T5s for years. For the most part, my corals are much more healthy now using these SB Reef lights. I believe the spectrum is much better for growth. My problem was that I was mistaken in thinking only the white channel would cause bleaching. I do not know where I got that terrible idea from. ':huh:'

I have been interested in using a PAR meter for such a long time now. This new awareness today has made me much more interested.

Anybody guess what that bleached-out coral is commonly called?
 
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JerPow83

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You mean the Miami hurricane chalice or the monti that I believe is a superman monti

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CenlaReefer

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You mean the Miami hurricane chalice or the monti that I believe is a superman monti

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You got it. The bottom one in the pic is a Miami hurricane chalice. I am not sure about that montipora. I am certain that I never got a superman montipora yet. I have one reserved for pickup from Stoned soon.

I'm thinking of not moving that chalice underneath the egg crate for more shade. I may use it's coloration as a indicator for when my PAR is too high or not. Maybe I could think of it as a living, color-coded PAR meter.
 
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CenlaReefer

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LOL! -rlol- I think you are saying I need to use a real PAR meter.

One one of the reasons I thought that this coral was decently healthy - despite it's terrible coloration- was because of its excellent tentacle extension at night.
 
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BluewaterLa

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Often times depends on the fixture / manufacturer of the light if the ''blue'' channel is stronger compared to the white channel.
The mix of LED's in the different channels or settings can change here and there, this will have a thing or two to do with which one is stronger.
Most fixtures now are fairly balanced as far as intensity / Par between the different channels
 

JerPow83

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You got it. The bottom one in the pic is a Miami hurricane chalice. I am not sure about that montipora. I am certain that I never got a superman montipora yet. I have one reserved for pickup from Stoned soon.

I'm thinking of not moving that chalice underneath the egg crate for more shade. I may use it's coloration as a indicator for when my PAR is too high or not. Maybe I could think of it as a living, color-coded PAR meter.
Looking more I believe it to be mystic sunset or a bleached version of it lol

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clsanchez77

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I did not get a good picture of it bleached. It was the copperhead cyphastrea and all the "copper" is gone. All I have left is the green eyes. The brown is slowly fading back in.
 

CenlaReefer

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That is a big improvement Jeremy! My other corals are looking much better as well. My Miami hurricane chalice is now blue instead of puke green. ':banana:' I will post a picure later when I get time and get an Ipad that is working again.

Thanks again for the expert advice!
 

JerPow83

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That is a big improvement Jeremy! My other corals are looking much better as well. My Miami hurricane chalice is now blue instead of puke green. ':banana:' I will post a picure later when I get time and get an Ipad that is working again.

Thanks again for the expert advice!
My pleasure

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CenlaReefer

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Here are some comparisons of before and after pictures. The first picture is during the bleach-out. The second picture is from today. The Miami hurricane chalice is the main focus here. It was more of a greenish color prior; now it is much more blue. The Hollywood stunner chalice is more colorful as well now.

IMG_1246.JPG
IMG_1247.JPG
 
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