There’s a place Ralph’s electronic in LAFAYETTE. When I have these issues they always had what I needed
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I've never seen much of any attempt to seal LED fixtures from any brand Nor use any stainless hardware that could stand up to saltwater longer.
When I rebuilt my Maxspect lights they did have some silicone sealing the ends for the driver and PCB boards so I went farther and sealed them better.
Most other brands I've messed with were just open everywhere to moisture and salt, sad that the cost does not reflect what should be.
Wish I had someplace like this near me in the Mandeville/Covington/Slidell area... I do so many electronics repairs and builds, that a place like that would be a godsend to me.
I miss Radio Shack, some folks think I'm odd for this though they carried a good supply of electrical components in store. Gone are those days I suppose.
Have ever tried a filefish? If your worried about it eating corals, I would set up your old 120 for those corals and let the file fish go to town. I'm sure you have enough unused equipment laying around.
Reefbrite sold me a new driver for $10. I'll solder it in once it arrives.
My two part dosing is starting to get out of hand, so, it's time to break out the calcium reactor. I got the cylinder refilled this week, and hooked up my CarbonDoser regulator...to be greeted by loud hissing from the pressure relief valve, which is stuck open. So, I disassembled the regulator and cleaned up and lubricated all the internals with silicone based grease and oil, and, all is good. Next step, put the GEO 818 reactor online, but, only after testing it for leaks since it's been a couple of years since I last ran it. True to form, it leaks at the junction between the PVC union and the lid, which is really a bad design. I've had to replace this lid 3 times, and the same with my GEO 612 I used prior to this. PVC to acrylic maybe isn't the strongest bond, and hence the eventual development of a leak, but, I have several other pieces of equipment with PVC to Acrylic bonds and they've never leaked. GEO always fails me here, so his technique must really not be that good. So, instead of fork over $50+ for another lid, which will fail again, I am going to modify this one.
The body of the reactor receives its flow from the Panworld pump through a Uniseal. Why on earth didn't GEO just use this on the lid too? I plan to do the following:
1. Trephine out the the existing union to acrylic part with a hole saw that is just big enough for a 3/4" ID Uniseal.
2. Insert said Uniseal
3. Redesign and rebuild the plumbing that exits from the lid and then enters the pump's input (I'll have to lengthen some of the pipe and get a new union).
4. Insert this newly fabricated part through the Uniseal on the top and connect the rest to the pump.
5. Send a photo to GEO (if they are still around and owned by George Weber still) and tell them this is how they need to do it!
EDIT: I stand corrected. A new lid is $100! GEO can go pound sand.