Kirk's 350-ish build

Kirk_M

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He is, I had him recently quote me a price on a new sump. I was looking at his sumps and calcium reactors, but went another direction instead.

After looking at his new designs, I can see he eliminated this dumb design. All his new reactors have all plumbing entering into the body of the reactor instead of the lids, and the input/output plumbing is simple push-fit JG fittings.
 

clsanchez77

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PVC to acrylic maybe isn't the strongest bond

Honestly it isn't. The resins will blend with a thermal set and it does hold water tight, but I suspect is vulnerable to eventual fracture, not unlike a bad weld. Uni-seals make these type of bonds obsolete. Just go all acrylic and use the uni-seal for your penetrations.
 

Kirk_M

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Honestly it isn't. The resins will blend with a thermal set and it does hold water tight, but I suspect is vulnerable to eventual fracture, not unlike a bad weld. Uni-seals make these type of bonds obsolete. Just go all acrylic and use the uni-seal for your penetrations.

He could have even kept the old design if he had made the lid out of PVC instead of acrylic.

Edit: Looking at his website, I noticed that he does indeed now have an all PVC model (available in custom colors) calcium reactor that uses the old design lid (like what I have) versus his newer acrylic design.
 

Kirk_M

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Update on the Ozone generator...parts arrived. Parts soldered in, fuses replaced, and it lives again! Except I can smell no ozone coming out of the tubing. So, time to disassemble it again to figure out what is amiss. I removed the corona discharge unit and disconnected the ozone resistant tubing from it. Seems the ozone has destroyed the Tygon tubing over time, making it release an oily substance into the tubing and into the corona discharge cell. So, I unscrewed the two brass air fittings from the corona discharge's tube, and blew the tube out with my compressor, followed by cleaning the brass fittings and then blowing out the Tygon tubing. I have ordered new tubing in the meantime. I hooked it all back up, plugged it back in, and the smell of ozone smacks me right in the face :). Success! FYI, make sure you don't ever accidentally touch a corona discharge tube when it's receiving voltage... like I did. I was holding my hand nearby to see if I could feel air blowing out of the fittings once I cleaned everything back up, and got just a little too close. Hello, high voltage!
 

Tupes

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Corona discharge????!!! That sounds dangerous enough for the time being. Better get checked for the virus Lol. Maybe a little soon for this joke?
 

Kirk_M

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Corona discharge????!!! That sounds dangerous enough for the time being. Better get checked for the virus Lol. Maybe a little soon for this joke?

LOL...I knew someone would comment on it as soon as I typed out "corona." :)

@Kirk_M wanted to know what it felt like be tased. Who knows what's going on in the woods. Lol

Don't tase me bro!

Is that what you call the morning after Taco Tuesday night?

Yep, especially after going to Pancho's Mexican Restaurant back in the day :)
 

Kirk_M

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Had some spare time to mess with the leaky calcium reactor:

Used a 44mm hole saw to make a hole for the 1" uniseal. You have to let the holesaw cut away the threads of the union, and once
you've done that, the opening of the union will serve as your drill guide, keeping the saw centered . The pilot drill on this chuck keeps it
in the confines of the union. Go slowly and let the weight of the drill do the work. I would have used my drill press, but the lid is
just to big to fit on it.

IMG_9386.JPG



Success!

IMG_9387.JPG


1" uniseal tried in:

IMG_9388.JPG


1" union with a 1" piece of PVC, pushed through the uniseal, sealing the lid. You need to cut the pipe flush with the lid, I discovered later, as leaving it long will change the water level of the reactor.

IMG_9389.JPG


Further assembly with a street 90 elbow:

IMG_9390.JPG
 
Last edited:

Kirk_M

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Sectioning the manifold of the reactor - cut the old union off from the rest, saving as much of the black PVC as possible:

IMG_9393.JPG

Reassemble with PVC primer and glue. I had to add:
a new TEE,
a 3/4 to 1/4 reducing bushing for the reactor feedline's John Guest fitting,
a "nipple" of 3/4" PVC,
a 3/4" street elbow,
a 1" to 3/4" slip reducing bushing (on the union's top, since the union, uniseal, and pipe intake are all 1"):

IMG_9394.JPG



Tried in. Since the 1" union is taller than the old 3/4" one on the lid, the manifold needs lengthening to reach the pump. Thankfully, that is a simple fix, as the manifold connects to the pump with flexible tubing and hose barbs. All that is required is cutting a longer run of flexible tubing.
IMG_9395.JPG
IMG_9396.JPG


I cut that longer piece, hooked it all back up, and filled the reactor. Zero leaks after running an hour now.
 

Kirk_M

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Where did you get that tlf media?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't remember. I bought it before I took my old tank down. I also added dolomite chips for magnesium replenishment into the reactor, and I don't remember where I got that either. It wasn't local in either case, though. No store had it when I purchased it.
 

2fish4u

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I don't remember. I bought it before I took my old tank down. I also added dolomite chips for magnesium replenishment into the reactor, and I don't remember where I got that either. It wasn't local in either case, though. No store had it when I purchased it.

Ahhh dang. I asked bc everyone is out of it now and has been for months.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

seth&angelle

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Sectioning the manifold of the reactor - cut the old union off from the rest, saving as much of the black PVC as possible:

View attachment 16804
Reassemble with PVC primer and glue. I had to add:
a new TEE,
a 3/4 to 1/4 reducing bushing for the reactor feedline's John Guest fitting,
a "nipple" of 3/4" PVC,
a 3/4" street elbow,
a 1" to 3/4" slip reducing bushing (on the union's top, since the union, uniseal, and pipe intake are all 1"):

View attachment 16805


Tried in. Since the 1" union is taller than the old 3/4" one on the lid, the manifold needs lengthening to reach the pump. Thankfully, that is a simple fix, as the manifold connects to the pump with flexible tubing and hose barbs. All that is required is cutting a longer run of flexible tubing.
View attachment 16806 View attachment 16807

I cut that longer piece, hooked it all back up, and filled the reactor. Zero leaks after running an hour now.


When did you become such a do it yourselfer? You always been this way? Nice work.
 

Kirk_M

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When did you become such a do it yourselfer? You always been this way? Nice work.

Thanks, Seth. I always have been, and the older I get, the better I get at it. Growing up, I was always "that kid" who was more interested in disassembling his toys to figure out how they worked versus actually playing with them, lol. I can't stand to throw stuff out because it's marginally broken and can be fixed with a little bit of determination and know how. I'm as fiscally and socially conservative as anyone I know, but, I really don't like how we live in a throw-away culture these days. Everything is either designed to not be fixable (like all of Apple's current stuff -- that's part of their marketing -- "sorry we can't fix it, but would you like to buy the new model to replace your two year old computer?") , or, if it is, it costs more to fix than to buy a new one. With all the electronics that drive our modern world, the sheer amount of e-waste that Apple, Samsung, etc., and the users of their products generate is staggering, and it is a major, highly toxic pollutant. The older I get, the more conscious I become of the crappy condition we're leaving this little blue globe in for our kids and grand kids. I'll get off my soapbox now :) '[teach]'
 
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