Rebuilding Pirate's Reef

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dwebster86

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GPReefer said:
dwebster86 said:
Ha that's what makes it so awesome, that you have spent so little money.
Well, I suppose I should say that it did cost me money originally. Maybe I should just say I am re-purposing used equipment.

The new stuff for this system is the glass to build the tank ($30), the Build My Own LED light, a 5 gallon tank for an ATO reservoir, a fuge light, a Glass-Holes nano overflow, the chest hardware, a couple of 4 outlet DJ switch boxes and a small Eheim return pump. Everything else is from the old Pirate's Reef, my old 75 gallon, old equipment from my 140 and a 45 gallon that I once had. I never throw anything away and I don't usually sell my old equipment. I still have stuff up in my attic from my 200 build - and that was in 1986. :lol:


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GPReefer

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Ha! I have junk older than you! :twitch:
 

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The bottom side of PR is taking shape. There is a 5 gallon aquarium that will be my ATO reservoir. The BRS reactors, which will probably be replaced with their new mini reactors now that I have seen them. Will save me a lot of room and I think I can even move that set-up to the lower level, right above the sump. I have started the switch panels on the right side. I am thinking I will partially cover the sump to keep salt spray to a minimum. There is also a fan mounted on the right side of the stand to provide a supply of fresh, cool air.

There is a pretty good size fuge in the center. I will try that CoraLife mini T5 light to see how it does. The light slides left to right and front to back. I may replace it at some point, if it doesn't fill the need. Right now I have the old EuroReef skimmer in the left side of the sump, where there will also be a filter sock. I am trying a gate valve mod to get rid of the messy foam riser sleeve. Hopefully that will work out better. The simmer is about 10 ears old and still looks brand new. I did replace the Sedra pump. It had seen better days.

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GPReefer

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Travis said:
What are you using to supply the reactors?
I was going to use that Eheim 1048, but that thing seems to be awfully weak for a pump it's size. I am worried that it won't even pump up that far. Maybe if I lower the reactors and go with the BRSminis, it might work. I haven't hooked it up yet. I will find something.
 

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I must have missed it, but how are you going to keep the ATO from completely draining into the sump when the pump kicks on?
 

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Sethspst said:
I must have missed it, but how are you going to keep the ATO from completely draining into the sump when the pump kicks on?
Good question. Didn't know if anyone noticed that. :P

Simple. The water is not being pumped down, it is pumped upward. It goes into the side of an open ½" tube that drains dwon into the sump. The tube is open on both ends, so no siphon is possible. Here are some more detailed pictures of how I have it set up. I haven't added the float switch or controller yet, but this is the part that is related to your question.

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Travis

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Wow, now that's a twist on a way to ato lol.

I thought you where going to use a float valve.
 

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Travis said:
Wow, now that's a twist on a way to ato lol.

I thought you where going to use a float valve.
Nope, again - that would be too easy. Hahaha! I really don't have room for a float valve anyway. I will have an extra ATO controller when I get my 140 ATO upgraded and install the Tunze Osmolator on it. I have been using a Reef Fanatic controller on the 140 since 2006 with not even a hiccup. So, will gladly move it over to the nano. I could put a breakout box on the APEX to control a float switch, but this will be cheaper.
 

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Travis said:
Looks great, the handle really makes the chest.
Thanks. Never really thought about dressing up the chest part before. I kinda like it. :D

I ordered a few more things for it. I have 20 lbs of dry rubble rock coming and another bag of Fiji Pink sand. Going to see what I can do with the rubble rock, as far as the scape goes. I still have to put the tank together. I wanted to drill it before I siliconed it up, so I need to settle on the water movement issue. I think I am going to go with the two Eheim 1048s, one on each side, hooked up to the wave controller. I think it will be just the right amount of alternating flow. All you will see on the inside of the tank is the bulkheads and I am going to paint them blue, to match the blue color of the background and both ends. Should blend in really well. Going to hook those up with silicone tubing and hose barb fittings. Also want to see what I can do to make the overflow less noticeable. Have some ideas there. We will see.
 

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I completely agree with Travis. That handle really brings it out! Interesting to read about painting the bulkheads. I've never seen that done before. Any type of special paint you have to use for that?
 

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Grabloids said:
I completely agree with Travis. That handle really brings it out! Interesting to read about painting the bulkheads. I've never seen that done before. Any type of special paint you have to use for that?
Thanks. Krylon Fusion. It is made for plastics. "Bonds on a molecular level," to borrow their advertisement. :) I haven't ever done it before, but I did paint some of the plumbing that is underwater on the 140. I will let it cure for a while before I put it in the tank. Will give it a try.
 

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A little to update. I was going to use my old APEX that I replaced on my 140 for this tank. I had concluded after all of my tinkering with it for quite a while, that there was something wrong with the base unit. But, I didn't really know for sure. I could still use it, but could only use functions that could be programmed from the display. I looked into replacing just the ABU (brain) and you can buy that from Neptune for $274.

Before I ordered the new base unit, I decided to start a service ticket on it to make sure that it needed replacing. I got their tech on the phone and after a little diagnostic time, he concluded that there was indeed something wrong with the base unit. So, he told me that I could send it in for repair or, if I wanted, they would discount a new ABU $65, since I had started a service ticket on it. He said that it might be repairable for as little as $50. So, I sent it back to have it repaired, or, if it is the motherboard, replace it for about $210. So, I will, one way or the other, have a fullly functional APEX on this tank. If you are going to go over the top, why not? :D

So, I have been playing around with where to put the display. I think I like it on the end, where I can see it easily when I walk down the hall or enter the room. I am thinking about mounting it to the side of the chest with some small magnets that I have coming. That way, I can remove the display easily when I need to. If that works. Any opinions on how it looks on the side of the chest?

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I also got the ATO situated (cut and connected tubing). I also got rid of the large dual BRS reactors and went with their new Mini-Reactor, which is better suited for this size tank. Mounted the heater monitor and control.

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I also ordered a second "Build My LED" fixture. Looking on their site, they recommended 1 (18") fixture for a 5 gallon and 2 fixtures for a 10 gallon. The fixture is small. Since this tank is in the middle, I decided to go with a supplemental lamp that they call "Purple Wave." I am hoping that it will be similar to running Purple Plus or Fiji Purple T5 bulbs. The lights will be dimmable with the APEX, so I am not worried if it will be too much light.

And I ran across this neat 4" sock holder by Next Reef that I have coming.

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Kirk_M

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Any concerns with using magnets on a piece of electronic equipment? I, personally, wouldn't do it, but that's just me.
 

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Kirk_M said:
Any concerns with using magnets on a piece of electronic equipment? I, personally, wouldn't do it, but that's just me.
Yeah, that did cross my mind. I ordered them for another purpose and thought about using them after I did so. They are very small. Not sure they would hold the weight anyway. I just hate Velcro and I want it to be removable. Maybe back to the drawing board on that idea.
 
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