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clsanchez77

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Thanks for the input about dealing with humidity. Chris, I am sorry you and your family are having health trouble from mold. My wife has scarring on her lungs from her prior radiation treatments. Humidity in the 70s or above bother her. I tell my wife that when the A/C or heat are not running much, the dehumidifier needs to run. I need to get a small dehumidifier for the new sunroom as well. I have the tank stand in there now. I plan to get the aquarium in there later this week. I plan to post pics with questions to get y'all advice about outlet placements.
Thanks. That was in the past (2012) and since changing out our floors and putting in the "correct" underlayment, my son's issues have gone away. They were born in 2008 6 weeks premature so we always attributed Alex's issues to his birth status. What a relief finding mold was LOL. A bigger relief that I can now share some levity over the issue.

I understand the radiation side effects (not first hand). My mother-in-law just had a recent scare with her 4th (or 5th) cancer diagnosis. This would have been her 2nd bout with breast cancer. The doctor classified it as as close to "Stage 0" as you can get. Surgery was a success, but given her age, she has declined all chemo/radiation treatments. She is on her way to 80 and at a point where she values quality years over quantity years.

The reason I want to use the skimmer before the refugium is to help clean the water and reduce fouling-up the chaeto.
I agree with this approach :)

What height do you all recommend for these baffles?
Agree with @BryanJr, this should depend on your skimmer. My current sump is set to 10" and I had to lift the skimmer 2", which makes removing the collection cup difficult.

He pointed-out that I should not use any foam mechanical filtration that would keep pods from going into the return to feed the display.
Yes, good catch. I run mechanical before the skimmer, then skimmer to the refugium and refugium to the return pump. No mechanical after the skimmer. On my new setup, I will go straight from skimmer to return pump and then manifold off the return pump to the refugium. The refugium will also be able to go to the return pump without going through the skimmer. The reason for this is I find my total flow rate is too high for the refugium and chaeto will just bunch up at the overflow.
 

CenlaReefer

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I got the baffles installed yesterday. Mr. Scallon in Ball, LA cut them perfectly. I did get them sanded. The 2 tanks below will be plumbed together to share a common sump. I did it before and liked it very much.

I have an electrician starting next week. If you all could mount outlets anywhere, where would you mount them? I would rather not have to look at cords hanging down on the wall. I will need access to pumps for water changes and to service equipment from the display side. Every outlet will have GFIs. The drawing below is not to scale. I plan for an outlet on the opposite side of the wall for dosing pumps. I plan to keep a large ATI UPS backup device on the non-display side of the garage wall as well. The only time I have ever had to touch that device was during power outages. The Apex EL will be plugged into the UPS yet get mounted under the stand as high as possible. Instead of doing an electronics cabinet, I thought about maiking an electronics panel inside the stand to the left. The 40 breeder sump will not fill the stand.

Another option would be to do electronics in one of the cabinets above. That may be difficult to reach yet the most safe option. I could install a DJ power strip up there. The hood for the 20 display could hide wires hanging down.

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CenlaReefer

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I put the sump in today. I will need to put some thicker plywood under it before I will put any water in it. I am pleased with how the baffles came-out. I plan to put the Apex EL inside the cabinet to the right of the sump.
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CenlaReefer

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Are you putting electronics in sump? If so, is that a good idea?
My thought was to have the Apex mounted on the cabinet wall inside the stand all the way to the right. It would not be directly over water. Still, just today I was having 2nd thoughts about an electronics cabinet just outside the main stand. Is that what you would do? My thought is the less exposure to humidity, the better.
 

Bigfish

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I would definitely place electronics in a cabinet away from sump. With the high humidity in sump it will react with the electrical connections in time, I have a partition in my sump to place my electronics in dry area but doesn’t look as though you have enough room.
 

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I would definitely place electronics in a cabinet away from sump. With the high humidity in sump it will react with the electrical connections in time, I have a partition in my sump to place my electronics in dry area but doesn’t look as though you have enough room.
@Bigfish, do you or anyone else have any very beginner-level videos or other resources you recommend as to how to go about doing wire management to make an electronics panel? What do y'all think about a panel made and attached to the outside of the stand to the left or right? I believe I could design such with drip loops and an enclosure to prevent water infiltration even in the case of a catastrophic water leak. I prefer a free-standing cabinet yet my space is limited.
 

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I plan to show more pics of the interior of this building addition later. All the windows have built-in benches for seating like this one below.

The plan is to make an electronics panel right here using a 2x4 frame. I am even thinking about recessing the whole thing into the wall depending where the studs are. Doors will have to come later. I will space the frame about 2 inches from the main stand to keep water from getting to the electronics in case of a leak. What do you all think of having my electrical outlet on the (non-display side)? I would like to have all my power supplies and lots of my wires on the garage side as well. There is enough room to pass wires and cord plugs behind the stand to go to this electronics panel. I plan to drill a hole at the bottom of the frame to ensure a proper drip loop.

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Bigfish

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@Bigfish, do you or anyone else have any very beginner-level videos or other resources you recommend as to how to go about doing wire management to make an electronics panel? What do y'all think about a panel made and attached to the outside of the stand to the left or right? I believe I could design such with drip loops and an enclosure to prevent water infiltration even in the case of a catastrophic water leak. I prefer a free-standing cabinet yet my space is limited.
Sorry I don’t have a video to guide you. my wiring is a mess but at least on dry side of sump with exception of wires going to various components in the sump
 

CenlaReefer

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I found a simple video to watch that is about my level of skill.


I will try keeping stuff behind the wall as much as possible. The stud is in the way and recessing the control panel would have been too much work. I went with scrap 1x6 lumber left over after I had a deck built. I really do not have much as far as equipment goes. My Apex EL is highly underutilized.

I watched a video of a guy that had Crystal Dynamics tank and matching stand that included a control board integrated off to one side of the stand. His tank developed a bad leak and lots of his equipment became toast. If not for his GFI, it would have likely caused a fire.

I am glad I am going this route of keeping stuff a bit away from the water. @Bigfish, thanks for helping me make this decision.
 

CenlaReefer

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This will need more holes drilled along with some furniture hole covers. Again this was made from 1x6 inch scraps from a deck I had built years ago. It goes along with the rest of the building which mostly used culled lumber (2x4s and 2x6s) on an ultra cheap discount.
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CenlaReefer

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I am trying to run ethernet line under my house and my electrician is telling me it needs to be in its own conduit. Opps on the planning. I already ran and buried my conduit over a year ago. I assumed I could run both power line and ethernet line through the same fat conduit. I guess the adjacent power line would cause interference with the signal? Would it work if I try it anyway even though it is not up to code?
 
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Cigmin

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I would run it I think if u you don’t have the cable yet there’s some that’s premium rated to cut down interference

It peeps please correct this if wrong


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clsanchez77

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I keep all of my electrical in a side cabinet next to my tank. I custom built the cabinet so its an all-in-one cabinet lol. But no electrical under the tank. I fear the same thing.
 

CenlaReefer

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I am having 2nd thoughts about just running separate conduit from the house to the garage and then the sunroom. I may as well run a length of 1/4 RO line in a third length of conduit while I am digging a small trench anyway. I was wanting to put that off to later yet I may as well do it next week.
 
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clsanchez77

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I am trying to run ethernet line under my house and my electrician is telling me it needs to be in its own conduit. Opps on the planning. I already ran and buried my conduit over a year ago. I assumed I could run both power line and ethernet line through the same fat conduit. I guess the adjacent power line would cause interference with the signal? Would it work if I try it anyway even though it is not up to code?

I am having 2nd thoughts about just running separate conduit from the house to the garage and then the sunroom. I may as well run a length of 1/4 RO line in a third length of conduit while I am digging a small trench anyway. I was wanting to put that off to later yet I may as well do it next week.

Missed the first quote. You cannot run ethernet or other data with AC power. Run AC power in its own conduit and ethernet/data is another. You can mix DC power with data/ethernet in a common conduit, although best practice is to separate them. AC power can induce voltage on lower voltage systems, so yes, interference.

I would run a separate conduit for the RO line. The issue here is not interference, but rather condensation/leaks damaging other cables. For this line, you could use flex line, like the colored PE pipe you buy at Home Depot or other big box store. Depending on the length of the line, you might want to upsize it. When I moved my RODI to the garage and ran the 1/4" line across the attic to the tank, the pressure increase in the 1/4" line was too much against the RO membrane and everything slowed down. I run the BRS dual 75-gpd and was probably getting 50-gpd instead of the rated 150-gpd. I pulled a 3/8" line in place of the 1/4" and now I am operating at spec again. If I had to guess, I would say the run is 85-ft. My house is a 1-1/2 story so the line had to go around the upstairs bedrooms, so its longer than the house is wider. I could not get the RO unit any further from the tank if I tried lol.

The reason for the conduit vs direct bury is that so a rat or possum or other small burrowing varmint does not get attracted to the sweat and chew the line.

While at it pull a waste line too. You could hook a pump up to this and use it to pump out waste water from the skimmer, water changes, dumping waste, whatever. For the waste, I would pull another 1/2" PE line and this would not have to be cased, at least I don't think. Pretty sure saltwater skimmate water would be its own deterrent lol
 

Cigmin

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What about wireless? What’s the cable for?


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